Featured in Michigan Travel Ideas 2010, beginning on page 51.
Farmers markets brimming with bounty, bakers and chocolatiers creating pure indulgence, an ever-growing cadre of inventive chefs, undisputed classics—Michigan’s always vibrant food scene gets richer by the day. We revisited old favorites and discovered appealing newcomers in every corner of the state. Follow our food trails to irresistible tastes of the Great Lakes State.
Featured in the Article
Trattoria Stella (1200 W. Eleventh St., Traverse City, 231/929-8989; www.stellatc.com).
The Cooks’ House (439 E. Front St., Traverse City, 231/946-8700; www.thecookshouse.typepad.com).
Terrace Inn (1549 Glendale, Bayview, 231/347-2410; www.theterraceinn.com).
Stafford’s Bay View Inn (2011 Woodland Ave., Bay View, 231/347-2771; www.staffords.com).
Burritt’s Fresh Market (509 W. Front St., Traverse City, 231/946-3300).
Symons General Store (401 East Lake St., Petoskey, 231/347-2438; www.lakeandhoward.com).
Pellston Market (230 N. US Highway 31, Pellston, 231/539-7100; www.pellstonmarket.com).
Leelenau Cheese Company/Blackstar Farms (10844 E. Revold Rd, Suttons Bay, 231/271-2600; www.blackstarfarms.com.
American Spoon Foods (411 East Lake St., Petoskey, 231/347-1739 and 245 East Main St., Harbor Springs; 231/526-8628; www.spoon.com).
Pleasanton Bakery (812 Cottage View Dr., Traverse City, 231/941-1964; www.pleasantonbakery.com).
Tandem Ciders (2055 N. Setterbo Rd., Suttons Bay, 231/271-0050; www.tandemciders.com).
The Cove Restaurant (111 River St., Leland, 231/256-9834; www.thecoveleland.com).
Carlson’s of Fishtown (205 W. River, Traverse City, 231/256-9801; www.greatlakeswhitefish.com).
Sleder’s Family Tavern (717 Randolph St., Traverse City, 231/947-9213; www.sleders.com).
Jesperson’s Restaurant & Pie Shop (312 Howard St., Petoskey, 231/347-3601).
Grocer’s Daughter Chocolates (12020 S. Leelanau Hwy, Empire, 231/326-3030; www.grocersdaughter.com).
Alpine Chocolat Haus (208 W. Main St., Gaylord, 989/732-1077; www.alpinechocolathaus.com).
Big Bear Deli (201 E. Main St., Gaylord, 989/731-3354; www.bigbeardeli.net).
Hermann’s European Cafe (214 N. Mitchell St., Cadillac, 231/775-9563; www.chefhermann.com).
Cherry Republic (6026 S. Lake St., Glen Arbor, 231/334-3150; www.cherryrepublic.com).
Chateau Chantal (15900 Rue de Vin, Traverse City, 231/223-4110 or 800/969-4009; www.chateauchantal.com).
Gusto! Ristorante (111 St. Joseph St., Suttons Bay, 231/271-6222; www.m22italiano.com).
Pond Hill Farm (5581 S. Lake Shore Drive, Harbor Springs, 231/526-FARM; www.pondhill.com).
Fitzgerald’s (5875 Sawyer Rd., Sawyer, 269/426-3489; www.fitzsawyer.com).
Soé Cafe (12868 Red Arrow Hwy, Sawyer, 269/426-4878).
Pine Garth Inn (15790 Lakeshore Rd., Union Pier, 888/390-0909; www.pinegarth.com).
Skip’s (Red Arrow Highway and Lakeshore, Union Pier, 269/469-3330).
Timothy’s (16220 Lakeshore Rd, Union Pier, 269/469-0900; www.timothysrestaurant.com).
Milda’s Corner Market
(9901 Town Line Rd., Union Pier, 269/469-9880; www.milda.us).
Redamak’s (616 East Buffalo St., New Buffalo, 269/469-4522; www.redamaks.com).
Froehlich’s (26 N. Elm St., Three Oaks, 269/756-6002; www.shopfroehlichs.com).
Viola Cafe (102 N. Elm St., Three Oaks, 269/756-9420; www.violacafe.com).
Bailey’s Cafe (8 S. Elm St., Three Oaks, 269/756-2400; www.baileysthreeoaks.com).
Drier’s Meat Market (14 S. Elm St., Three Oaks, 888/521-3999; www.driers.com).
Tabor Hill Winery & Restaurant (185 Mount Tabor Rd, Buchanan, 800/283-3363; www.taborhill.com).
Abigail Heche (14866 Red Arrow Hwy, Lakeside, 269/469-0447; www.abigailheche.com ).
Domaine Berrien (398 E. Lemon Creek Rd, Berrien Springs, 269/473-WINE; www.domaineberrien.com).
Round Barn and Free Run Tasting Room (9185 Union Pier Rd, Union Pier, 269/469-6885; www.roundbarnwinery.com).
Lemon Creek Winery & Fruit Farm (533 E. Lemon Creek Rd,
Berrien Springs, 269/471-1321; www.lemoncreekwinery.com).
St. Julian Tasting Room (9145 Union Pier Rd., Union Pier, 269/469-3150; www.stjulian.com).
Lake Country Inn (18 W. Merchant St., New Buffalo, 269/586-2301; www.lakecountryinn.com).
Brewster’s Italian Cafe (11 W Merchant St., New Buffalo, 269/469-3005; www.brewstersitaliancafe.com).
Bentwood Tavern (600 West Water St., New Buffalo, 877/945-8600; www.marinagrandresort.com/bentwood).
Oink’s (227 West Buffalo St., New Buffalo, 269/469-3535).
The Common Grill (112 S. Main St., Chelsea, 734/475-0470; www.commongrill.com ).
Chelsea House Victorian B and B (118 E Middle St., Chelsea, 734/433-4663; www.chelseahouseinn.com).
The Purple Rose Theatre (137 Park Street, Chelsea, 734/433-ROSE; www.purplerosetheatre.org).
Chelsea Farmers Market (Downtown on Park St., Chelsea, 734/475-1145; www.chelseafarmersmkt.org).
Zou Zou’s Cafe (101 Main St., Chelsea, 734/433-4226; www.zouzouscafe.com).
People’s Food Coop (216 N 4th Ave., Ann Arbor, 734/994-9174; www.peoplesfood.coop).
Ann Arbor Farmers Market (315 Detroit Street, Ann Arbor, 734/794-6255; www.a2gov.org).
Zingerman’s (422 Detroit St., Ann Arbor, 734/668-2779; www.zingermans.com).
Bell Tower (300 South Thayer, Ann Arbor, 734/769-3010; www.belltowerhotel.com).
The University of Michigan Museum of Art (525 South State St., Ann Arbor, 734/764-0395; www.umma.umich.edu).
Mount Clemens Farmers Market (141 North River Rd, Mount Clemens, 586/493-7600; www.mountclemensfarmersmarket.com).
Captain’s Landing (152 North River Rd, Mount Clemens, 586/493-9551; www.clintonrivercruisecompany.com).
Crew’s Inn (31988 N River Rd, Harrison Township, 586/463-8144; www.crewsinnrestaurant.com).
Gass Centennial Farm (Ray, 586/752-7570).
Cleary’s Pub (113 S. Main St., Chelsea, 734/475-1922; www.clearyspubchelsea.com ).
Just Delicious Scones (15110 Kercheval, Grosse Pointe Park, 313/823-8425).
Chelsea Chamber of Commerce (310 N. Main St., Suite 120, Chelsea, 734/475-1145; www.chelseamichamber.org).
Ann Arbor Area Convention & Visitors Bureau (120 West Huron St., Ann Arbor, 734/995-7281; www.annarbor.org).
Amadeus Restaurant (122 E. Washington, Ann Arbor, 734/665-8767; www.amadeusrestaurant.com).
Kerrytown Market and Shops (407 N. Fifth Ave., Ann Arbor, 734/662-5008; www.kerrytown.com).
Southeast Travel Guide—More Things to See and Do
Rich farmland, a great college town, and expansive waterfront are all earmarks of southeast Michigan. Though adjacent to Detroit, there’s little industrial angst; surrounding regions are bucolic, verdant and peaceful. In Mount Clemens, a waterfront town, the 30-year old farmers market hosts many local farms, notably Gass Centennial Farm, the granddaddy of them all. Owned by innovative farmers Ellen and Bill Gass, the farm produces, for starters, 50 kinds of heirloom tomatoes; 60 kinds of lettuce; and 10 kinds of herbs. They’ve supplied to local restaurants for 30 years (586/493-7600; www.mountclemensfarmersmarket.com).
Post-market, head next door to Captain’s Landing, a boat cum restaurant on the Clinton River. Try the whitefish and enjoy the nautical vibe, down to the buoys and varnished wood. Big baskets of red geraniums and daisies flank tables on the dock, with bright blue umbrellas. Nightly entertainment; entrees from $9 (586/493-9551; www.clintonrivercruisecompany.com).
Crews Inn, down the road, is a low-slung waterfront restaurant with boat slips in front. Sit outside, marvel at the boats, and check out the smelt – minnow-sized fried fish; entrees from $10 (586/463-8144; www.crewsinnrestaurant.com).
Drive along Lake St. Clair, linking Lakes Erie and Huron. The land you see is Canada, to the South – yes, that’s right. South. Moviegoers might recognize it as the final scene in the movie “Gran Torino.” Parks line the waterfront, and when the lake sparkles, there’s nothing prettier.
Just Delicious Scones in Grosse Pointe Park has a top-secret scone recipe. Currant scones crammed full of chunky chicken salad make a yummy, messy lunch (313/823-8425; www.justdeliciousscones.com).
Everyone in Ann Arbor worships at the shrine of Zingerman’s Deli. Housed in a tiny, red brick storefront on Detroit Street, it’s definitely off the college student path. A black awning with white writing and a big colorful sign in the window are the only indicator. It’s so small, and stuffed with wonderful things – Vosges chocolate! 35 kinds of Extra Virgin Olive oil! Zingerman’s Creamery (five miles away) makes their own cheeses, and there’s a peppercorn chevre I love, aptly called “Detroit Street Brick.” Zingerman’s Bakery bakes their own bread (734/663-DELI; www.zingermansdeli.com).
Adjacent to Zingerman’s is the Ann Arbor Farmers Market, one of the biggest in southeast Michigan. Local chefs call it an heirloom tomato/baby lettuce/artisan vegetable extravaganza. One of the biggest markets in southeast Michigan, Ann Arbor’s is well laid out, visually appealing, and loaded with samples like vegan brownies, housemade mozzarella and goat cheese and poppyseed baguettes (734/994-3276; www.a2gov.org).
Next door, Kerrytown Market and Shops houses its own culinary delights. Sparrow Market has all matter of free-range meat and poultry, while Durham’s claims to “smoke salmon before your very eyes.” In the beverage arena, Everyday Wines “conspires to provide affordable wines.” In Michigan, that’s saying something. They specialize in offbeat pours like vinho verde, a Portuguese blend, and Allegria, an Italian red that tastes like “wet sand and violets” (734/662-5008; www.kerrytown.com).
It’s mandatory to visit People’s Food Co-op of Ann Arbor, even if the vibe is distinctly post-Woodstock. Walls of grains and loads of hemp are a throwback, but its Cafe Verde serves a mean smoked mozzarella frittata (734/994-9174; www.peoplesfood.coop).
Head for the recently expanded and restored University of Michigan Museum of Art. Merging a historic beaux-arts building with a contemporary wing seemed like a bold move, but the mixture of undulating lines and light work well. We loved the dialogtable, an interactive storytelling tool that allows visitors to collect various images and digital content about different works of art from the museum’s collections and piece them together to create an individual “pool” of objects; free admission (734/764-0395; www.umma.umich.edu).
The boutique Bell Tower hotel is geographically desirable, within walking distance of all Ann Arbor attractions. The charming stone exterior, complete with tiny awnings nicely offsets the Faux-English furnishings; rooms from $170 (734/769-3010; www.belltowerhotel.com).
Fifteen minutes down the road to Chelsea, the vibe is different. Little frame houses with bursting window boxes of geraniums dot the road into downtown – all three blocks of it. But what a town! Chelsea, an Ann Arbor bedroom community, is where the academics go to get away from it all. Chelsea dates from the mid-1800s, and its charm remains intact. Right in the middle of town—sort of strangely—is The Chelsea Milling Company, home of “Jiffy” Corn Muffin Mix, sort of a citadel. Beloved of all short cut cooks, the Jiffy Corn Bread mix really is better than scratch.
Zou Zou’s Cafe is a Francophile’s dream. Exposed brick walls and a pressed tin ceiling add to the charm, as do the brioche and quiche (734/433-4226; www.zouzouscafe.com).
Head to Cleary’s Pub for Great Lakes fish sandwiches and Bell’s beer. This old school pub is authentically Irish, but not green and white – more subtly Cead mile failte. Owned by three siblings who take turns waiting tables and bar tending, it’s a family-friendly spot for a sporting event, too; sandwiches from $6.50 (734/475-1922; www.clearyspubchelsea.com).
Look out for actor Jeff Daniels, a local boy. Rather than move to New York City or Los Angeles, Daniels stayed in Chelsea and built The Purple Rose Theatre, a repertory theater showcasing area playwrights and actors. Now in its 19th year, the theater has grown in stature while maintaining affordable tickets for theatergoers (734/433-ROSE; www.purplerosetheatre.org).
For dinner, there’s only one choice – The Common Grill, around the block from The Purple Rose. Billed as an American upscale bistro, the grill boasts an extensive menu that’s interesting and affordable. My oysters, while clearly not Michigan grown, were saltwater fresh, and the seafood chowder, a house specialty, made me think I was on the Cape. The hickory smoked chicken sandwich, about four-inches tall, uses a housemade Dijon mustard sauce. The Grill is housed in a turn-of-the-century department store, where huge murals of Chelsea scenes adorn the walls. Everything is made on site, including the bread and the desserts; dinner entrees from $25 (734/475-0470; www.commongrill.com).
The Chelsea House Victorian Inn is the third corner in a triangle that involves dinner at The Common Grill, a Purple Rose production, and lights out at the Chelsea House Victorian Inn. It’s a lovely – truly—Victorian house, set at the edge of a residential neighborhood. The Inn is perfectly landscaped; there’s a gazebo out back, too, and everything was manicured within an inch of its life. The guest rooms had modern amenities; I especially liked the 500-square-foot sky-lit Tower Suite. Breakfast, prepared in the bright, homey kitchen, was that B and B standard, blueberry-stuffed French toast; rooms from $115 (877/618-4935; www.chelseahouseinn.com).
Southwest Travel Guide—More Things to See and Do
The Red Arrow Highway, an idyllic tree lined road, runs next to Lake Michigan’s wide sandy beaches, linking the Harbor Country towns, of Union Pier, New Buffalo, Sawyer, Harbert and Lakeside. Chicago weekenders, used to Windy City cuisine, have upped the culinary ante here.
Sawyer is home to Fitzgerald’s, a gastro pub in an old-brick storefront with tiled floors. A bit of a Gallic theme is afoot – as I perused the menu, I heard Catherine Deneuve singing in breathy French. The pork roast, mashed potatoes and local green beans set us back $6.95 (269/426-3489; www.fitzsawyer.com).
Three Oaks is like Field of Dreams, a dusty seven miles inland from the Red Arrow Highway. In the middle of a field rests three blocks of culinary and retail delight.
Froehlich’s, a tiny gourmet shop and deli that makes nearly everything in the world on-site. Colleen Froehlich makes at least 10 kinds of jam, umpteen types of bread and – her own tomato juice. Naturally, she grew the tomatoes (269/756-6002; www.shopfroehlichs.com).
Viola Cafe, started by two sisters from Chicago. The homey café, named after their grandmother Viola, pays tribute to her culinary expertise. I ogled the glass case filled with puffy, white meringues, fruit-laden pies, and a double-chocolate cake. Sigh. Everything is made from scratch; the specialty is the homemade soups and daily specials (269/756-9420; www.violacafe.com).
Three Oaks has its own poet laureate in addition to the Acorn Theater, which resembles a French vineyard with a cobblestone courtyard and big pots of dahlias. It's home to live theatrical and musical performers (269/756-3879; www.acorntheater.com).
Ditto B Books, an old farmhouse with tiny rooms of floor-to-ceiling books and local art pieces (269/756-9722; www.ricktuttle.com).
Round Barn Winery and Free Run Cellars tasting rooms look like a gymnasium, albeit with tasteful faux French décor, a bar area, and plenty of bottles (269/469-6885; www.roundbarnwinery.com).
Milda’s Corner Market, a Lithuanian deli in Union Pier. Like Drier’s Milda’s has a cult following - and a devoted Facebook page. Everything in the tidy, red painted store looks delicious, especially the Kugelis, which Milda’s husband pulled out to show me. It’s a casserole creation of onion, bacon, eggs, potatoes and milk (269/469-9880; www.milda.us).
Redamak’s, a decades-old log cabin that is a local shrine to burgers. I loved the knotty pine interior where I could sample “the greatest hamburger in the world,” meaning ground chuck, freshly prepared and pan fried. The owners decree “tomatoes and lettuce may not touch a hamburger,” hamburgers from $4.25. Seasonal eatery (269/469-4522, www.redamaks.com).
The Pine Garth, a waterfront country home with its cedar shake Tudor main building, expansive lawns, gardens and pet cat, peeks over the beach as waves crash. The large living room, filled with overstuffed couches, overlooks the water, and huge picture windows reminded me that the lake was always right there, like a cruise ship. Soothingly pastel décor is quilt-filled and cottagey, with lots of wicker and pine armoires; rooms from $185 in season (269/469-1642; www.pinegarth.com).
The creation of another Chicago transplant, Timothy’s smoky terra cotta dining room is warm and contemporary. I started with crab cakes, not exactly a Michigan delicacy, but they were superb – tiny, perfectly crusted, and flaky; entrees from $16 (269/469-0900; www.timothysrestaurant.com).
After dinner grab a waterfront seat at The Pine Garth in time for an award-winning sunset. From an Adirondack chair, the pink and orange orb sliding into an azure wavy lake draws cheers.
Located in the parking lot of Skip’s, a venerable steakhouse restaurant, the market has baked goods and the beginnings of Michigan produce – tender, purple asparagus – as well as carnivore offerings from Skip’s. The steak was rare, juicy and intense. Words, really, fail. Skip’s aggressive menu is not for the faint of heart – they actually serve a 42-ounce prime rib; entrees from $15 (269/469-3330; www.skipsrestaurant.net).
In Sawyer, Soé Cafe’s exterior, done up in beiges and warm browns, is sleekly warm. Anchored by a big stone fireplace, the dining room is a cozy spot for a chilly night. The sweet potato fries – divine; entrees from $12 (269/426-4878; www.home.earthlink.net/~chefcharles).
Tabor Hill though only 20 minutes inland, is hilly, dappled with fields of –surprise-grape vines and lots of sunny flowers. It’s a rolling verdant drive, and the entry into Tabor Hill, the big daddy of the local wineries, is dramatic. Tabor Hill is certainly the only vineyard with a Napa-level of sophistication. There’s an elegant, airy restaurant overlooking the vineyard, and a bar called the “Grape Escape” (800/283-6383; www.taborhill.com).
Lemon Creek and Domaine Berrien are within 10 minutes of Tabor Hill, and both about the size of a small shoe store. While the farms are quite old, winemaking is new, so the caliber of wine is well, youthful (269/471-1321; www.lemoncreekwinery.com; 269/473-WINE; www.domaineberrien.com).
New Buffalo, less than a 10-minute drive from Union Pier, has a real downtown, a harbor, and a boardwalk. Boutiques and restaurants dot the streets. No bauble loving soul should miss Abigail Heche, a tiny jewelry store in Lakeside that was a tasty freeze in a previous life (open April–Labor Day). It’s a pale mint gem with silver writing on the pink awning. Her offerings include tourmaline and diamond earrings and delicate golden spider web cuffs (269/469-0447; www.abigailheche.com).
Lake Country Inn in New Buffalo, a small white inn located a block from the harbor, has seven rooms. Owner Rick does –literally – everything from cleaning and cooking to decorating. Tumbled marble bathrooms, H20 shampoo and conditioner, 400-thread count sheets and lots of thick white towels are only a few of the accoutrements I loved. Sisal carpet (good for wine stains, Rick says) and eclectic fine furniture make this a comfy, stylish retreat; rooms from $99 (269/612-0606; www.whitechapelinn.com).
Oink’s Ice Cream is a pastel theme park for dessert and pig lovers. Oink’s is jammed with stuff – not just pig memorabilia, but old signs, soda bottles, dolls, kites, stuffed animals, and even vintage shoes. There’s even a –seriously! – Oink’s 1953 Ford Courier in the back of the building. Oh, they serve ice cream, too. Kids love the chocolate chip cookie dough flavor (269/469-3535).
At Bentwood Tavern, New Buffalo’s only waterfront restaurant, we tucked into the last pocket of sunshine, admiring the docks full of gleaming cabin cruisers. We shared garlicky shrimp and polenta; entrees from $14 (269/469-1699; www.marinagrandresort.com/bentwood).
Across the street from Lake Country Inn, Brewster’s has an oddly Anglo name for an Italian ristorante. The decor is terrazzo Italian, down to the fresco-esque painted walls and faux vines. Ditch the menu and go right for the pizza. Cooked in a wood-burning oven, it’s cracker crust thin, but chewy. Ours had delicate artichokes and bits of ham. Napoli – in Michigan; pizzas from $9 (269/469-3005; www.brewstersitaliancafe.com).
Northwest Travel Guide—For More Information
You’ll eat better and have more fun in northwest Michigan if you check the restaurant and attractions listings online at the Traverse City Convention & Visitors Bureau (www.visittraversecity.com; 800/940-1120) and the Petoskey Area Visitors Bureau (www.PetoskeyArea.com; 800/845-2828). Drop by the downtown visitors centers at both for advice, brochures and maps.
The bureaus can suggest lodgings in a variety of price ranges. If you’ll be visiting during the busy summer season, plan on booking accommodations well in advance. In Traverse expect to pay $185 and up for a mid-July overnight stay in at the swank Grand Traverse Resort & Spa (www.grandtraverseresort.com; 800/236-1577); $230 or more for a beachfront stay at the Bayshore Resort (www.bayshore-resort.com; 800/634-4401) and $130 or more off the water at the Days Inn & Suites (www.tcdaysinn.com; 800/982-3297).
In Petoskey, mid-July rates range from $175 and up near the bay at Bay Harbor Resort & Marina (www.bayharbor.com; 888/229-4272) to $140 at the Comfort Inn (www.comfortinn.com; 231/347-3220) to $129 and up downtown at the historic Stafford’s Perry Hotel (www.staffords.com; 800/737-1899).
Check for golf-and-stay packages at inland resorts such as Boyne Highlands and Boyne Mountain (www.BOYNE.com; 800/462-6963), Garland Lodge & Resort (www.garlandusa.com; 877/442-7526) and Shanty Creek Resorts (www.shantycreek.com; 866/901-3150).
Northwest Travel Guide—Food Trail
Day 1, Traverse City Area
Honor the Cornish miners who helped settle northern Michigan with a breakfast Bobby pasties ($4.23) downtown at Cousin Jenny’s (231/941-7821). If you can't face a half-moon meat pie before noon, then try the truffled eggs or salmon crepes (entrees $10 and up) with an espresso drink at Patisserie Amie (www.patisserieamie.com; 231/922-9645).
The warm, cobalt and jade shallows of Grand Traverse Bay are a tempting spot to wile away any day. If that's the plan, and you don't already have your favorite beach, the visitors bureau can direct you to nearly 40. West End Beach, Traverse City State Park, and the beaches of Clinch and Bryant parks are all near downtown.
Each of those beaches are close to good eats, ranging from the cherry malts and lean-forward-or-stain-your-lap burgers at Don’s Drive In (less than $8 for burger and malt, 231/938-1860) to lobster tempura, sushi and extend-your-pinky elegant martinis (sushi $5 and up, entrees $16 and up) at Red Ginger (www.eatatginger.com; 231/944-1733). No matter where you go, flip-flops and sunburns are considered appropriate dress. This is Traverse, after all.
If you feel like exploring, drive west to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (www.nps.gov/slbe; 231/326-5134) for a day of fun and sun among sand dunes that sweep down to the gentle (usually) Lake Michigan surf. Odds are you’ll drive to the national lakeshore on State-22, which delivers you almost to the lime-green doorstep of Grocer’s Daughter Chocolates (www.grocersdaughter.com; 231/326-3030). The herb-flavored dark chocolates are particularly good ($8.50 for a four-piece truffle box).
It goes without saying that a lakeshore expedition includes a stop at Cherry Republic (www.cherryrepublic.com; 800/206-6949) in Glen Arbor (about 10 scenic miles north of Empire) for homemade soda and to cool off in the shade amid the flower beds of the park-like grounds. No worries if you're too late for the cherry cream cheese coffee cake in the cafe. There’s always cherry chicken salad, or a cherry hot dog, a cherry ... you get the picture (lunch under $12).
While you’re on the lakeshore, you might as well end the afternoon with a 20 mile drive north to Leland, where the kids can watch trawlers dock at old Fishtown and whitefish being filleted at Carlson’s of Fishtown (231/256-9801). Afterward, reward yourself with a Chubby Mary (yes, that’s a fish in your drink) nearby at The Cove ($10 for a chubby, $13 and up for Lake Michigan whitefish entrees; www.thecoveleland; 231/256-9834). Or walk over to the legendary 88-year-old Bluebird Restaurant (www.leelanau.com/bluebird; 231/256-9081) for whitefish sautéed or fried ($19).
If you have kids that insist on pizza, but you’d like to eat something else, drive east 10 miles to Gusto! Ristorante in Suttons Bay. Gusto! offers a variety of pizza ($9 and up), including all the kid-friendly flavors: pepperoni. You can enjoy a glass of red over a plate of carbonara, Sicilian tuna pasta, even baby-back ribs ($6 and up). If you’re good with pizza for everyone, Paesano’s overlooking the Boardman River in downtown Traverse City has a large local following ($7 and up; www.paesanospizza.com; 231/941-5740).
A few words about beer: The region is famous for wines, but it’s also gaining renown for custom crafted ales and lagers. In Traverse City, you can sip a cool one at North Peak Brewing Company/Kilkenny’s Irish Public House (www.northpeak.net; 231/941-7325), known for its Steelhead Red, porters and stouts, and Mackinaw Brewing Company (www.mackinawbrewing.com; 231/933-1100), which serves up the distinctive Beadle’s Best Bitter.
Right Brain Brewery (www.rightbrainbrewery.com; 877/944-2337) features ales—and a hair salon. The brewery’s motto is “You sip, we snip.” On the drive between Traverse City and Petoskey, detour to Short’s Brewing Company (www.shortsbrewing.com; 231/533-6622) for Pontius Road Pilsner, Bellaire Brown and the ultra hoppy Huma Lupa Licious.
Day 2, Traverse City
You’ve got options. Back to the beach? Or off to the Mission Peninsula jutting into the bay north of downtown to tour vineyards and take in the sights? But first, breakfast. If you’re beaching it, stay close. A few blocks southeast of downtown, the decidedly humble Ham Bonz (231/929-9288) serves big omelets ($5 and up) and ham from the smoker in the alley out back.
If you’re heading to one of the western beaches Martha’s Leelanau Table (www.marthasleelanautable.com; 231/271-2344) in Suttons Bay offers Michigan maple syrup on its pancakes and local asparagus and cheese in the omelets (breakfasts from $4.50 up).
If you’re doing the peninsula, detour a few miles east around the bay to the gleaming tower of Grand Traverse Resort (www.grandtraverseresort.com; 800/236-1577). The resort’s Sweetwater American Bistro serves egg dishes, homemade pastries and a tasty cinnamon swirl French toast ($8). While you’re there, grab an espresso drink in the lobby coffee shop and browse the concourse of shops.
You can taste, and you’re welcome to swallow, Rieslings, Pinot Blancs, Merlots and other wines at nearly 20 vineyards nestled among cherry orchards on the peninsula. Most offer grand views of the bay. Among them is the small, family-owned Brys Estate (www.brysestate.com; 231/223-9303), Chateau Chantal (www.chateauchantal.com; 800/969-4009), where the tasting room is reached via a winding road through the 65-acre vineyard, and Peninsula Cellars (www.peninsulacellars.com; 231/933-9787) in the 19th century Maple Grove Schoolhouse. The visitors bureau can guide you to several other area vineyards.
No need to delve too deeply into how to find the many cherry orchards in the Cherry Capital of the World. Wherever you are, you’re close to an orchard. If you’re a statistics wonk, the region boasts 600,000 sweet cherry trees and 2 million tarts. If you prefer to count your cherries by the pie slice, all the better. Many swear by Linda Mikowski’s pies (less than $4 a slice), which you can buy midway between Lake Leelanau and Suttons Bay at Covered Wagon Market & Bakery (www.coveredwagonmarket.com; 231/271-6658). Grand Traverse Pie Company (www.gtpie.com; 231/922-7437) was founded in Traverse City and now has stores across Michigan and Indiana. In addition to pie ($3 and up per slice) the original store serves up pot pies ($5 and up) under such beautiful crusts that you might feel guilty about attacking them with a fork. And don’t forget, the city’s annual week-long National Cherry Festival always begins the first week in July.
But back to your day, and lunch. Will it be burgers (from $6.25) or smelts ($8.50) at Sleder’s Family Tavern (www.sleders.com; 231/947-9213) or perhaps vegetarian, certainly made from ingredients just harvested locally (and generally under $12), at The Cooks’ House (www.thecookshouse.typepad.com; 231/946-8700).
Pace yourself, you’ll be doing a lot of tasting at the afternoon’s last stop: The Village at Grand Traverse Commons. Set in a residential area just west of downtown, the commons occupies several stately 19th and early 20th century buildings of a one-time state hospital for the mentally ill. Among its galleries and shops, you’ll want to stop at The Underground Cheesecake Company (www.undergroundcheesecake.com; 231/929-4418) for a slice of mocha mudslide or cherry swirl (less than $5). Wash it down with an espresso drink (about $3) at Higher Grounds Trading Co. (www.highergroundstrading.com; 877/825-2262). You also can buy pounds of just-roasted fair trade beans ($9.75 and up).
Drop in at Left Foot Charley winery (www.leftfootcharley.com; 231/995-0500) to taste one of its nationally acclaimed Rieslings ($15). Don’t forget Pleasanton Brick Oven Bakery (www.pleasantonbakery.com; 231/941-1964), where the signature loaf is parmesan olive herb (all breads under $8). When it’s time for dinner, you’re just steps away from Trattoria Stella (www.stellatc.com; 231/929-8989) which sprawls across a stone basement that feels like it should be in Rome. The menu constantly changes, but might include an appetizer of confit of duck ($12) an arugula salad with blueberries, toasted hazelnuts and goat cheese ($9) and an entrée of bacon-wrapped Berkshire pork tenderloin ($28).
Finally, sooner or later, and it might as well be now, you need to make a pilgrimage to the countryside just west of Traverse City for Moomer’s Homemade Ice Cream (www.moomers.com; 231/941-4122). In a region where ice cream has a cult like following, Moomers is universally touted as the best. Steel yourself for a hard decision, from Sticky Bun to White Chocolate Oreo to Cherries Moo-bilee. Moomers offers 20 flavors daily from a menu of 100 flavors (cones less than $5).
Bringing home the bounty: From tulips to bibb lettuce, maple syrup, strawberries, granola and honey regular farmers markets congregate some of the region’s best growers and food artisans. In Traverse City, the Sara Hardy Farmers Market convenes Wednesdays and Saturdays throughout the growing season from 8 a.m. until noon downtown across from Clinch Park. Petoskey hosts its Friday downtown farmers market along Howard Street from 8:30 a.m. until 1 p.m. Saturdays, the bounty moves across the bay to Main Street at Ottawa Stadium in Harbor Springs from 8 a.m. until noon. You can shop Boyne City farmers markets Wednesdays and Saturdays at Old City Park from 8 a.m. until noon.
Day 3, Petoskey/Harbor Springs
Theoretically, in one day you can make a solid dent in the food fun of these serene, compact, neighboring communities of immaculate downtowns and equally well-kept Victorian-era neighborhoods along Little Traverse Bay. We’ll try to help, but if you can spare an extra day or two, your stomach will thank you. Truth is you could use the extra time just to work your way through the menus of the three local Stafford’s properties (www.staffords.com; 800/737-1899): the mellow yellow, geranium bedecked 1899 Perry Hotel downtown in Petoskey’s Gaslight District; the town’s 1886 Bay View Inn with the grand front porch and wicker chairs; and Stafford’s Pier Restaurant where the comings and goings in Harbor Springs’ yacht basin provide the picture-window view.
Since our day begins with breakfast, here’s a tip: Stafford’s Perry and Stafford’s Bay View Inn serve similar fare that include sumptuous Belgian waffles, eggs benedict, and a nap-inducing French toast of cherry-swirl bread under powdered sugar and Michigan maple syrup. If you need a caffeine boost afterward, chase breakfast with an espresso drink in downtown Petoskey at Roast & Toast (www.roastandtoast.com; 231/347-7767). You’ll know when you’re there—it’s the storefront elaborately decorated with inlaid ceramic coffee mugs. Roast & Toast also serves food, including make-your-own-breakfast wraps (94-cents per item) and a variety of lunch soups and salads (from $3.50).
Now it’s time to shop—for food. You can stock up on a dazzling array of delicacies within a two-block downtown core. Kilwin’s (www.kilwins.com; 231/347-2635) has a glass-counter wonder of bon bons, brittles, truffles and other chocolate-inspired treats (about $10 for a half-pound of almond toffee crunch). This is the flagship store of the locally-based company with shops in a dozen states. You’ll also find Kilwin’s in Harbor Springs and Traverse City. Across the street, sample your way through the jams, jellies, salsas and other take-home treats at American Spoon Foods (www.spoon.com; 888/735-6700). Next door American Spoon Cafe & Gelato provides the chance for a second breakfast, for instance preserve stuffed muffins ($3) as well as lunches of smoked whitefish salad ($10) a gourmet peanut butter and jelly sandwich ($7) and walleye tacos ($9). Ask for a taste of the oddly delicious peach/basil mayonnaise if it’s not on your sandwich. Oh, yes, the gelato counter features homemade flavors (also available in Harbor Springs, Saugatuck and Traverse City).
Down the street, Symons General Store (www.lakeandhoward.com; 231/347-2438) boasts among the best cheese selections in Northern Michigan, fresh baked breads, row after row of shelves crammed with gourmet foods and a huge basement wine cellar where you’re welcome to taste. In fact, you can enjoy a glass in the pocket-sized outdoor dining area between Symons and the store’s neighboring Chandler’s Restaurant (231/347-2981) where, if you’re already in the mood for lunch, the entrees include a grilled toasted cheese sandwich of cheddar, Swiss and feta ($8).
But if you’d rather loop around the bay to Harbor Springs for your afternoon calories, Stafford’s Pier Restaurant lunch menu includes an unusual local favorite amid a big, eclectic menu. The Big B Club Burger ($7) is a cheeseburger/club sandwich hybrid accessorized with Miracle Whip. You’ll want to add a side of sweet potato fries ($3). At The Pier, you’re not far from heaven, also known as Tom’s Mom’s Cookies (www.tomsmomscookies.com; 231/526-6606). Oh, the luck if you happen to arrive at this petite pink bakery, the last of a small chain, just as the signature chocolate chunk cookies come out of the oven. Or the white chocolate macadamia, the oatmeal raisin and the peanut butter (under $2 per cookie). And on busy summer weekends, the cookies will be coming out of the oven every few minutes while you stand in line in the beautifully groomed courtyard.
Crooked Tree Breadworks (www.breadworks.com; 888/591-8688) is another local purveyor of fine baking. You can take out granola ($9), scones ($2.75), but the breads are the stars and pepper parmesan ($8) is the best seller.
If you’re not revisiting one of the Stafford’s restaurants for dinner, try these worthy substitutes: in the historic Bay View community, just beyond the hemlock-paneled lobby, the elegant DeVol Dining Room at the Terrace Inn (www.theterraceinn.com; 800/530-9898) serves whitefish chowder ($4), sautéed chicken Hemingway ($13) under a cherry cream sauce and planked whitefish ($20). Cider braised salmon ($25) and mustard crusted pork tenderloin ($30) are among the entrees served at tables fanning out under a 16-foot-tall wine tower in the Las Vegas-fancy Sage restaurant at the Odawa Casino (www.sagerestaurant.com; 231/344-4420).
And if you rather just head back to your room to eat, grab ribs ($12), crab cakes ($6.25) or other take-out entrees and homemade ice cream ($2.75) at Galley Gourmet (www.galleygourmet.com; 231/439-2665) south of downtown near the waterfront and Bay Harbor Resort.
For your family and friends, or you: Many of the growers and food purveyors mentioned here will ship products to your home, and several offer online catalogs.
On The Foodie Frontier
Keep your eyes open for food finds as you travel to and from northwest Michigan. Here are a few stops to consider:
In downtown Cadillac, Hermann’s European Cafe (www.chefhermann.com; 231/775-9563) features a rich fettuccine morello ($20) studded with morel mushrooms, wiener schnitzel ($25) and ahi tuna burgers with wasabi mayo ($12).
In downtown Gaylord, eat your potato chips dipped in dark or milk chocolate ($6) at Alpine Chocolat Haus (www.alpinechocolathaus.com; 800/835-6713). At the east edge of downtown, Big Bear Deli (www.bigbeardeli.net; 989/731-3354) serves espresso drinks and sandwiches ranging from Philly steak ($5.75) to vegetarian ($5.50).
Near Lewiston, Herman’s restaurant in the classic northwoods Garland Resort serves pheasant quesadillas ($15), a cobb salad featuring steak, shrimp or chicken ($13 and up), pork ossobuco ($24) and a variety of steaks ($19 and up).
