Pure Michigan Connect - Michigan's Travel and Tourism Blog

Pure Michigan Connect - Michigan's Travel and Tourism Blog

Guest Blogger

Today’s guest blogger, Megan Emery, discusses her spontaneous trip throughout Michigan. Have you ever taken a spontaneous trip?
It was spontaneous and last minute, “I heard that highway whisper inside, are you ready to fly?” I left at 4 p.m. on a Friday, and the sun went down somewhere around Grayling. When I saw the lights of the Mackinaw Bridge ahead of me, I got excited. Once on the other side, I headed west on M-2 with Lake Michigan staying to my left for miles and miles. The tips of all the pine trees and smooth pane of water were highly visible under the moon. Anyone who has traveled north of Clare knows that the tops of the trees are different once you reach a certain latitude. My headlights also illuminated enough of the branches to my right to distinguish that they were changing color but I ached to see them in the day.

I settled into my hotel in Munising around midnight. Early in the morning I glanced out the window facing the hillside and saw the “annual blaze of glory” – the fiery oranges, raging reds and loud yellows and practically giggled with excitement. This was why I came.

I headed first towards Marquette. I ate breakfast of an omelet and toast with amazing homemade strawberry jam. I drank loose-leaf Jasmine tea as the sun came through the thin opaque shade to warm my table at the Sweetwater Café. I wandered down to the harbor to watch the locals winterize their boats. On my way back east, I stopped off at every road sign turn out for the beautiful sights. Somehow the pictures I took did not compare to the view before me when I moved my eyes away from the camera lens. At one of these turnouts, there were sand toys near a small overturned boat with a wet t-shirt cast over the side to dry. It was resting in the sun on the shores of Superior but there was no one to be found.

Back in Munising I ventured to Miner’s Castle part of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and then visited a flurry of waterfalls. On the walk to Miner’s Falls someone ahead of me was building piles of rocks. They were all stacks of three and in all different sizes. It brought to heart the purity of the woods in the Upper Peninsula and the silly possibility of elves in the midst. Wagner Falls was hidden at the end of a short path through the woods, the creek bubbled over the rocks from the woods at a slight downward angle on the right, but ahead a true and wide falls fell. The sound was magnificent but nothing compared to what I would hear in Paradise the next afternoon.

I continued to a bed and breakfast in Engadine for the night. After attending church with my innkeepers I stopped my truck so many times for photos on the road to Newberry that I thought I might not get to Tahquamenon before the sun went down – I did. But that is for another day.

Megan Emery lives in Galesburg, Michigan. She is a Chippewa and a Spartan. She is proud to live in this beautiful state and visits new places as much as possible.

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Tina Lassen, Michigan Travel Ideas contributing writer, gives insiders tips on affordable one-day trips in the UP. For more affordable family vacations ideas, see the article in the 2010 issue of Michigan Travel Ideas.

A good place to base yourself is in Paradise at either Harmon’s Birchwood Lodge cabins ($66-$130/night, three-night minimum in summer) along Whitefish Bay or at the Shipwreck Museum ($150/night, includes museum admission) in the restored 1923 Coast Guard lifeboat station crew quarters.

Platforms provide great views of the 200-foot-wide wall of frothing water in Tahquamenon Falls State Park. Photographer: Jason Lindsey

Then, head to Tahquamenon Falls State Park (state park vehicle permit required, $6 residents, $8 nonresidents). For a better experience, bypass the entrance to the Lower Falls and continue to the Upper Falls. This is the river’s marquee cascade, a 200-foot-wide wall of frothing amber fury. It’s even more majestic when you have the viewing platform to yourself, so it pays to get there early.

Then, backtrack to the Lower Falls. Better yet, try to talk someone in your group to shuttling the car and hike the four-mile River Trail to the Lower Falls and enjoy surprisingly quiet trails that lead to century-old white pines and wilderness lakes.

Enjoying the serenity of the four-mile River Trail from the Upper Falls to the Lower Falls. Photographer: Dennis Cox

When you leave continue southwest on M-123, then west on H-37 to Oswald’s Bear Ranch where wild bears (none are bred or purchased) roam to and fro. Oswald’s provides a lifelong home for young bears whose mothers have been killed or mature bears who, for a variety of reasons, can’t be released in the wild. Admission fees ($15 per vehicle) help fund the bears’ diet of fruit and meat purchased by the ton.

Total cost for the whole family? Less than $30.

Trip Guide:

1)      Tahquamenon Falls State Park: Hiking, fishing, nature programs and camping centered around the Tahquamenon River and its waterfalls. Vehicle permit required. Rent rowboats or canoes in the Lower Falls concession area.

2)      Oswald’s Bear Ranch: Open Memorial Day weekend through late September. Admission $15/vehicle.  

3)      The Tahquamenon Logging Museum: Chronicles the region’s 19th-century lumbering era, with displays on life in the logging camps, the evolution of logging equipment, and fun old photos and newspaper clippings from the region. Small admission fee.

4)      The Toonerville Trolley: This classic UP attraction combines a narrow-gauge, open-air railroad ride with a boat tour to the Upper Falls. Train/Boat tour runs six or more hours; train-only trip is two hours.

5)      Tahquamenon Falls Brewery and Pub: Homemade pasties, wild rice soup, whitefish sandwiches and other local flavors round out a comprehensive menu for lunch or dinner. Nice timber-frame building with deck in Upper Falls. Entrees $6-$24.

 

When Tina Lassen was 8 years old, she watched wide-eyed as a moose trundled out of the woods on Isle Royale and into a wild Lake Superior bay. She’s been enamored with Michigan ever since. Tina has written extensively about the state for magazines like Midwest Living and National Geographic Adventure, and for guidebooks including Moon Michigan, National Geographic’s Guide to America’s Outdoors: Great Lakes, and 1,000 Places to See Before You Die: US and Canada.

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Hearing about Herring

June 24, 2010

in Fishing

Thanks to Dan Donarski for sharing his tips on where and how to catch herring in Michigan!

This isn’t going to be a tale of ya-shoulda-been-there. Because, as this is written, the “been there” part of the story hasn’t revealed itself yet. It will, though, any day now.

Rather this is more in the vein of “ya-better-get-there,” because once it starts to happen it is simply too much fun.

We’re talking herring here. That slim, silvery fish that is pickled, smoked, creamed, fried and broiled. All to raves.

We’re talking that fish that hovers around a pound, but three pounds isn’t out of the question.

We’re talking the fish that confounds us with sheer numbers when they won’t bite, and delights us when they do. For, when they do bite, the fight they give is more than a little scrappy.

Herring invade the waters of the Eastern U.P. from late June through July. This invasion of sorts generally begins off of the Les Cheneaux (some are reportedly being caught here already) and slowly moves east to Drummond and then up the St. Marys past Lime island and all the way into Lake George and even the Harvey Marina area of Sault Ste. Marie. They move with purpose, too.

The purpose for this movement is to feed. Feed specifically on the mayfly hatches, the bigger the flies and the more flies that hatch the better for the fish. Over the past week, smaller mayflies have been hatching in the shallows. What the herring are looking for are those that hatch in say 15 feet of water, maybe more. This should start to happen within days based on current water temperatures.

Now, it should be noted that herring also take small minnows. Les Cheneaux area anglers know this and use ultra light Swedish pimples tipped with a wax worm to good success just before the flies start to hatch. Seems the herring have the ability to predict when the hatches will happen and start to come in a few days before the flies get active. This is when the super small jigging spoon really does its magic.

Once the flies have started though, the herring seem to almost exclusively feed on them. Wouldn’t you? I mean, if you were a fish, wouldn’t it be a bit easier to grab a mouthful of slow moving flies than chasing down some minnow?

The technique for catching these herring when they are feasting on the flies isn’t all that tough. That doesn’t mean that you just have at it. There are some real needs.

Needs like having an ultra limber rod: the longer the better. In fact, a 9-foot fly rod in the six weight category is just about perfect. You’ll also want either a small fly reel loaded with no more than 6-pound test, and four is much better, or a small spinning reel. These fish may be small but they do run fast. A good drag is vital.

Why all this for a small fish? Well, herring have a very tender mouth. So tender that they make crappies look tough. Put a lot of beef to them and you will literally come up with lips only. Let the fish have his head and gently work him in.

At the terminal end, tear drops tipped with waxworms are a good bet. Even better are nymphs tied in black, yellow, brown or grey– the colors of the real nymphs– and then tip these with a waxworm. Herring seem to think this is a double meal and really go for it.

Some anglers swear by going out at night during the bug hatch and collecting their own real flies. These they string onto a tear drop or very thin smaller hook. By the baskets of fish these folks bring in, the method certainly works.

Remember that 9-foot rod. The length serves more than just acting as shock absorber. While finely-tuned floats work, the rod itself may be your best bet in detecting the delicate take that herring are known for. That long rod telegraphs the bite better than a shorter, stouter rod. Chances are you will actually see the twitch of a bite before you feel it, another reason for a long, limber rod.

Herring will swim at all depths, from top to bottom. If you have a fish finder you may seen different schools stacked one on top of the other. Your trick is to find which ones are biting best.

For some reason I’ve had the best success trying 11 feet down first. That seems, for me anyway, to be my bread and butter depth. If I can’t find any takers there I move up, one foot at a time until I can actually see my bait. Three feet down doesn’t mean it is too shallow. You can see that far down, and you may just see a school or two move through at this depth.

If nothing is up high, then it,s time to move deeper a foot at a time. The only problem here is that once you get within a couple feet of the bottom that world record herring you think you are fighting transforms itself into a simple old sucker. Suckers like it on the bottom.

Expect a bit of a crowd when the herring are in full swing. It reminds me of the old perch fishing days when rafts of boats anchored over favored perch fishing holes. It is also a lot of fun, too much fun almost.

 

Dan Donarski is an award-winning journalist/photographer and author. He specializes in the outdoors and adventure travel. When he’s not out and about he lays his head in Sault Ste. Marie.

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Thanks to Jennifer Rees for sharing the story of her U.P adventure!

Every year, my husband rides his bike from Cedar Springs to Mackinaw City. Every year my sister, kids, and I take a trip ‘Up North’ to pick him up. This year, the group my husband rides with decided that 285 miles just wasn’t quite enough. They got to Mackinaw and kept right on going.  In fact, they went all the way to Grand Marais.

Meanwhile, we had an adventure of our own.

We headed up to Leland, where the first order of business was a stop at Carlson’s for A.P.’s favorite food – smoked fish. When we asked him how it was, he couldn’t even stop eating long enough to use words. 

We hung out on the waterfront for a while then strolled around town. After a fun afternoon, we headed to Petoskey for the night, where my husband was.  In the morning we went to the Oden fish hatchery.  We couldn’t believe there was no charge! There was, however, a gift shop. The kids came away with patches, a book about animal ‘scat and tracks’, and “I’m A Michigan Kid Passports” which, really, should be issued to every child born in our state.

There hatchery has walking trails, an interpretive museum in an old box car, and an underground stream viewing area. The highlight was the trout feeding. For a dime, we got a handful of Trout Chow and I don’t mean to bruise any fish egos but it’s time for these guys to be finding their own dinner. They were fat. Still, my kids scrounged up about $2.00 in dimes and contributed to the Trout Obesity problem.

Back in the car, we headed up to the Soo.  I have to say that although I completely appreciate having a bridge to the Upper Peninsula; I hate actually driving across it. But, the U.P. is worth the white knuckles. We headed straight for the Locks and hopped on a boat tour. It was fun to watch the kids try and grasp where the water went, where it came from, and how it all came worked.

The next morning we headed to Munising for the Pictured Rocks boat tour. It was stunning. And windy, but mostly stunning.

From there we drove back to Grand Marais, where we met up with my husband and his biker buddies. We’d all had an incredible journey were happy to be reunited in such a special place. We ate dinner with friends, then went to Lake Superior Brewing Company for a beer. We went to the beach and watched the sun set over Lake Superior. The next morning, we checked out the Gitchee Gumee Agate and History Museum, and headed to Taqhamenon Falls.

We ate lunch at the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery where, naturally, we had pasties.

We cannot wait to get back and re-visit these places, and also to discover new ones. We’re proud to be raising Michigan Kids, and thankful that a vacation like this is so close to home.

 

 

Jennifer Rees is a stay at home mom of two young children in Grand Rapids.  Jennifer writes at  TheBigBinder.com, a blog about raising kids in Grand Rapids who are active, involved, and culturally aware.

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Getting “Fresh”

June 17, 2010

in Shopping

Emily Tennyson, Michigan Travel Ideas contributing writer, shares her favorite places to pick up the freshest Michigan foods around her hometown of Detroit. Sample the state’s bounty yourself along three food trails that are highlighted in the article “Get Fresh” in the 2010 issue of Michigan Travel Ideas. Also be sure to check out “Fresh” – one of our new TV ads this year focused on the bounty of Pure Michigan.

As a lifelong Detroiter and all-around foodie, I’m in the habit of watching trends. Lucky for me, I have a lot of fresh food options nearby and decide to reserve a couple Saturdays to visit some surrounding area farmers markets.

Mount Clemens is a quiet lakeside town with a decades-old farmers market.

On a beautiful Saturday morning I drive to Mount Clemens, a quiet lakeside town about 30 miles northeast of Detroit. For many local farmers the decades-old farmers market is their sole opportunity to meet the public and share their wares (open every Friday and Saturday, May through November, from 7 a.m. – 1 p.m.). The vendors set up in the grass and sell everything from the back of their pickups. When I peek into the back of an S-10, I see tiny redskin potatoes the size of grapes, still caked in dirt, and bright green haricots verts. A perfect nicoise salad starts to formulate. One truck over, I find dessert, too – the lone quart of fuzzy yellow raspberries.

I move a couple trucks down to find vendors Ellen and Bill Gass of Centennial Farm. For the past 25 years, they have organically raised the tasty fare they sell at the market. I try their intense, woody raw asparagus. Next time, it might be one of the 50 varieties of heirloom tomatoes, or 60 kinds of lettuce. I head home with my finds, already looking forward to my next weekend’s adventure.

On another beautiful Saturday morning I drive to Ann Arbor and Chelsea, both about 45 miles west of Detroit. I bring along my daughter Chloe, an aspiring chef.

Chelsea's downtown farmers market is alongside the Purple Rose Theatre.

Around the block from Zingerman’s Deli  (open everyday 7a.m.-10 p.m.) we find the open-air green awning farmers market (open every Wednesday and Saturday, May through December, from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.). Even though it’s only 9 a.m., it’s pretty busy. I am pleased to see rows of curly, sage green lettuce, piles of kale, shiny white leeks, towering basil plants and rafts of strawberries. The fruits are appealing, but I’m craving carbs. I taste Anatolian Bakery’s Mediterranean-style almond muffin. A good choice, I decide.

After we’ve had our fill in Ann Arbor we make the 15-minute drive to nearby Chelsea. We find a small but well edited farmers market (open every Saturday, May-October, from 8 a.m.–noon). There, I discover tiny boxes of baby lettuce, organic eggs and aromatic dill.  I purchase shiny yellow peppers from the Beautiful Earth Farm with dinner in mind.  

Full bellies and satisfied palates accompany us as we head home. I wonder if Chloe is busy next Saturday…

Writer Emily Tennyson, a fourth generation Detroiter, cherishes her hometown and Sanders Hot Fudge for dessert and, always, a drive along Lake St. Clair.

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