In a very stylish and relaxing atmosphere the sushi bar turns out first-rate sushi and sashimi. But for the sushi-shy, there's also an interesting limited array of other Japanese standards. Ronin offers only 5 entrées ($11-$28) but with noodles, fish, fowl and beef, most gastronomic bases are covered. Of the 20-odd beers available, nine are on tap, including Kirin Ichiban. The bar is also well stocked with sake, along with an intelligently selected group of 10 bottles of wine, four of which cost between $20 and $28. Open only for dinner and no reservations.